Macerata

Provincial capital with a Renaissance cathedral, a historic university, the intimate Teatro Lauro Rossi, and the Buonaccorsi Museum. In summer the open-air Sferisterio hosts one of Italy’s great opera festivals (see summer events). Weekly markets on Wednesday and Saturday.

• Da Silvano, historic inn in the centre, excellent grilled meat and vegetables; also pizza.
• Osteria dei Fiori, small trattoria in an alley off the centre, traditional regional cooking (vincisgrassi).
• Il Quinto, down-to-earth dishes, lovely intimate setting, friendly owners.
• Ristorante I Gelsi, meat-focused, open-fire cooking in a 1700s country house setting just outside town.
• Koinè Vineria, wine bar and restaurant.