Ancona

The regional capital, named Italian Capital of Culture 2028, about 40 minutes up the coast. A Roman triumphal arch on the old port, the Romanesque cathedral of San Ciriaco high on its headland, a strong archaeological museum, and the green bulk of Monte Conero rising behind the city. For a romantic dinner, La Vecchia Pesca is a historic restaurant built on stilts over the water, seafood-focused and panoramic.