The Conero coast: Sirolo, Numana & Portonovo

The most dramatic stretch of coast in Le Marche, about 30 minutes north. White cliffs, turquoise water, and two pretty cliff top villages. Mediterranean scrub and cliffside trails run through Monte Conero park, the Fonte d’Olio – Monte Conero trail gives panoramic sea views. Worth a full day: hike in the morning, lunch, swim in the afternoon.

Top beach picks:

• San Michele & Sassi Neri, from Sirolo, on foot or by summer shuttle
• Spiaggia Urbani, near Sirolo
• Portonovo Bay, Mezzavalle (wild, hike-in), La Vela (with its famous rock formation), and Portonovo itself, with a tiny Romanesque church right on the beach.

On the water: boat tours from Numana, Sirolo or Ancona to swim stops, caves, and Due Sorelle beach (konerobrothers.it). Kayak excursions (conerostyle.com) and SUP rental. Snorkelling and diving from Numana or Portonovo (centrosubmonteconero.com). Parasailing (rivieradelconero.info). And Vespa Tour Marche runs out of Numana (vespatourmarche.com).

Where to eat on the Conero:

• Marcello and Da Emilia, the twin beachfront institutions in Portonovo bay. Simple, panoramic, excellent fish.
• Clandestino Susci Bar, one-Michelin-star “sushi” bar on the Portonovo beach, sophisticated seafood.
• La Torre (Numana), perhaps the most panoramic restaurant on the Conero coast, refined seafood.
• Bocasalina (Numana), high-quality seafood, good service.
• Da Sara (Sirolo), historic restaurant in a small square, traditional, no-frills, excellent.
• Bar Belvedere (Sirolo), small kiosk in the Conero park, panoramic, meat-focused (short menu, all very good).

Also nearby: Conero Golf Club in Sirolo, an 18-hole championship course set inside the regional park (1992, par 71). Pool, tennis, restaurant on site.