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Civitanova Marche

Big Saturday market and, year-round, a cluster of casual fish-lunch spots around the Liberty-style old fish market on Piazza Gramsci (see weekly markets for the Vecchia Pescheria tip). For a proper dinner: Mescola, innovative and sophisticated, with excellent drinks, or Donna Sofì for pizza napoletana. Two of our own favourites: Braceria Mei, grilled meats done properly, and Ristorante La Limonaia for high-quality seafood, outside Civitanova centre.